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Truck and Automobile Maintenance, Repair & Upgrades in the Texas Hill Country 3040 Highway 290 West, Dripping Springs, TX 78620 Office: 512-858-2132  ~Fax: 512-858-1982~After-Hours Technician: 512-422-6915
Hours: Mon-Fri, 8a-5:30p ~info@MaloneDiesel.com~www.MaloneDiesel.com
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TECH TIPS Our owner and Chief of Operations, Steve Malone, has answered the following questions which may be helpful in diagnosing problems with your vehicle.
Q: INJECTOR TIPS WORN? "I'm asking for a friend... His truck is a 97 350 dually with 185k on the clock. He pulls a 32 foot fifth wheel from Florida to Minnesota every summer. The truck has a chip and plenty of coolers for the auto trans. He's wondering why he's getting considerably more black smoke than before. also seems to think mileage is down 1-2 MPG also. I kinda told him fuel isn't what it used to be and the truck isn't exactly new. Other wise it runs well! Could it be the injector tips are getting a little worn or another sensor malfunctioning?" Bill Ward, Nashville, TN A: Steve Says: A dirty air filter or a problem with the air induction system would surely contribute to this problem. Also, check the turbo fins and the map sensor. Q: INJECTOR O RINGS: "I remember a post I read on the net about a bad batch of injector o rings on the market, I fear I may have some. Did injector o rings in Dec 07, and been using oil all winter, just chalked it up to cold weather, now its not cold. The truck runs great, doesn't smoke, even on startup, where should I start looking?" Steve Jenkins, Vancouver, BC A: Steve Says: Check your air filter, a clogged air filter will cause the engine to pull oil through the crankcase vent. If you suspect injector o-rings, try pulling the fuel filter and checking it for engine oil. Sometimes an o-ring will leak between the oil and fuel passages on the injector and the greater pressure wins. Oil pressure is around 500psi and fuel is running around 45 to 60psi. The higher pressure will force oil into the fuel return. I have also had to replace exhaust valve guides and seals to correct this problem. I would check the first two before tackling the valve issue. I have only seen a few with that issue. Q: NO A/C:"I have a 96 psd F350 and my AC compressor is not cycling or running when I turn on the AC in any position as I can not hear it (like in the past). I did check the under dash fuse and it seems good. Is this a common problem? Any suggestions?" Thanks, Brad Summers, Dalton, GA A: Steve Says: This year model is prone to a bad pigtail at high pressure, a switch or compressor pigtail. Turn on the a/c and jiggle the wires at these locations. If the compressor kicks in, replace the connector pigtails. If this doesn't solve the problem, check for power at the low pressure switch then high pressure switch. One of these may be bad, or the system may be low on freon. Q: HARD STARTING: I have been having a problem with my 95 F250 lately. When cold and left overnight I can start it up normally. Although if I have been driving and shut if off, it will not restart for a few hours at least. I checked the oil reservoir and it is full. The truck is primarily stock with 182k miles on it. It has a chip, intake and exhaust but I pulled the chip yesterday when it would not start. After 4 hours it started up again but ran rough. Also when cold if I accelerate hard it will miss. I also have a pretty bad oil leak in the valley somewhere if that helps. I'm not sure what I should start testing or looking for. I have searched with few to little results. Thanks for your time." John Boyer, Dripping Springs, TX A: Steve Says: The oil leak should be addressed but I don't think its the problem. First check the reservoir at the high pressure oil pump. This should be close to the top when the plug is removed. The fact that the truck starts cold indicates the reservoir is holding oil. The pressure regulator on the high pressure oil pump is probably the problem. You need to remove and inspect the o-ring and cut washer. If blown, replace and problem solved. I have no codes to work with so this will be a good start. If for some reason this does not fix the problem, high pressure oil pump diagnostics will be required. I've Seen this problem many times. Good luck! Q: MPG: "I have a truck that is fairly new to me, plus I'm new to diesels too. I hear of other trucks getting 17-24 MPG. My truck has 170K miles on it, a 6" lift and I'm running BFGs 315/75 R16 tires, but even calculating the size difference I'm only getting 14.5 MPG. My typical commute is a mixture, about 1/3 is stop & go and 2/3 is freeway. Also, I have a buggy trailer that I've towed thru the hills to the desert. I've tried programming my Edge Chip to stock but it seems to get this MPG all the time. Is this normal mileage or could I have a problem? Thanks for your time Steve." Bill Sawyer Georgetown, TX A: Steve Says: This is a commonly asked question. Typically, most of the trucks that roll through my shop get 12 to 15 mpg. We have done extensive testing and found that a good high flow air filter and upgraded exhaust are beneficial for mileage concerns. On Fords the superchips tuner seems to be the best bet. We have also found at 150-200k the fuel injectors have worn on the mechanical end and justify replacement. Or a cheap solution at @ $4000, but will provide better mpg. Don't forget compression, this also could be a factor in poor fuel mileage! Q: LOW OIL PRESSURE: "Lately my 95 F350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke has been showing low oil pressure on the factory gauge. It's filled with oil and is changed regularly. Do I have a compression problem? Is it time to think about a rebuild on the motor? Thanks a lot." Andrew Krsmanovic Austin, TX A: Steve Says: This too is a very common occurrence. No need to think about a rebuild yet. Your problem is either in the oil sending unit or the sensor for the sending unit. The differentiation is quite simple. If the truck starts up fine, it's the sensor that needs to be replaced. It's also a good idea to make sure that the electrical connection to the sensor is clean and in good condition. If it's hard or not starting, you'll need to replace the oil sending unit. Q: SPEED SENSOR: "I have a 95 PSD 7.3 with an auto trans. I drove home from work yesterday and all was well and then when I went to go to the store an hour or so later, my speed/odometer didn't work and the transmission would barely shift gears. When it finally did shift, it slammed itself into the next gear violently. Once it got up to speed, it was fine until I had to slow down for the next light and then we went through the same scenario. I have a superchips tuner so I pulled codes and got a p 0113 and a p0500. Any ideas what went wrong? Thanks for your help." Joel Cummings Bastrop, TX A: Steve Says: When the speedo is erratic and code is thrown, the speed sensor in the rear axle is probably the culprit. Very inexpensive and easy to change. Good luck! Q: PERFORMANCE: " Dear Sir, I have a 98 Powerstroke F250 and I want to modify it. I'm interested in boosting horsepower/torque as well as my fuel economy. I don't have the money for a fancy turbo or custom injectors though. Can you make a few recommendations to get me down the road a little quicker?" Thanks Randy Bobish Jasper, WY A: Steve Says: A superchips tuner, cold air intake, and a four inch exhaust will do this quite well. Start with the tuner, add the intake then the exhaust. As higher horsepower settings are used,the engine needs to breath. These modifications are simple enough to do yourself. Q: WIRING: " I replaced all the injectors 30K miles ago along with the under VC gaskets. The truck has slowly been running worse over the last 30K miles so I had it scanned. It came back with injectors 2,4,8 firing intermittently and need to replace the VC gasket and the under VC gaskets. I pulled it apart and sure enough, the harness' were burned along with the gaskets. What would cause this to happen again so soon? Bad IDM? Short in the main harness somewhere? The truck only has 162K on the clock. Thanks in advance." John Davidson Lowry Crossing, TX A: Steve Says: To the wiring failing prematurely would be faulty installation ie: not plugged in tightly, faulty parts, or after-market parts. I have seen a lot of after market components that fail well before their time, if not at the time of installation. I highly recommend using only OE parts that are engine related. Generally if the engine wire harness was shorted to ground or IDM failure was occurring, DTCs would be set. Also, while you're replacing the harness's and gasket,check the glow plugs. Good luck. Q: LONGEVITY: "I'm thinking about purchasing a 1996 f250 with a 7.3 Powerstroke engine. I know semi trucks can go upwards of six hundred thousand miles before a rebuild is necessary, but how long could a properly maintained pickup truck engine last like this one?" John Hall Georgetown, TX A: Steve Says: A well maintained 7.3 can run upwards to 350K to 500K. Good maintenance, wise use of performance products, and periodic inspections by a trained technician can easily allow this truck to run a long,long time. Q: VIBRATIONS:"When taking off from a complete stop, the truck vibrates for about a second or two then quiets until 25 mph. between 25-35 shake rattle and roll, then nothing at higher speeds. Recently replaced CB in driveline. Any thoughts? Thanks" John Ratcliff, Brookeville, OH A: Steve Says: Not knowing if the vibration is engine or drive line I would recommend checking the u-joints. It is a common problem for the joints to lock up in one direction and not the other. Pull the drive shaft and check the movement both ways. Next check the differential while the shaft is out. It will be necessary to lift the rear wheels off the ground. The tranny may be an issue also! Q: SUPPLEMENTING THE FUEL:"I've seen guys add cheap 2-stroke oil to their diesel fuel when they fill up their trucks. Is this something I should do also? I have a stock 97 f350 Powerstroke with 135K miles. I may chip it but don't plan on more mods. Any info or links to info are greatly appreciated. Thanks" Jackson A: Steve Says: With the removal of sulfur from diesel fuel, lubricity is also lost. By adding approved additives, or in this case oil, one can enhance the lubricity. Be careful, approved is the key word. Q: FUEL RESTRICTIONS: "While driving the dash FUEL FILTER light came on, the truck shook, lost power then died. I opened the fuel bowl to notice a strong vacuum which I never felt and the bowl was only 1/5 full of fuel but the filter was good as new. I had my fuel pump replaced. Then a few days later while driving the truck shook and died again. The shop got it going again meaning it was idling fine but they never put a load on the engine. On my way home the truck shook and died. Thinking I had bad fuel in the tank, it was drained, lowered and cleaned. With fresh #2 the schrader measured 46 psi and it drove great for 30 miles then lost power and died again. So now I think something is being overlooked. Could a clogged fuel return line prevent the fuel pump from working because there was such a strong vacuum in the almost empty fuel bowl? Is there possibly a problem with my FPR? If so where do I start? Any other ideas?" John Hamblin, Round Rock, TX A: Steve Says: I need a little more info to solve this problem. If possible, have someone pull the dtcs, year, make and model. Was the fuel bowl empty the second time it died? 94-97 have dual tanks and a switching valve. It is possible a bad valve not switching correctly can cause this problem. Send more info and we will solve this problem. Q: SMOKING: "Just bought a 97 with 153k miles pretty cheap. Had it towed home and finally got it started. Lots of blue/white smoke and oil coming out of the exhaust with a really rough run. Smoke almost smells more like unburned diesel but don't know. Pedal to the floor and I can only get 2500 rpm. It has a few switches under the dash that I'm not sure about and a mechanism after the turbo (exhaust side) that looks like it might be a jake brake of some kind. Was going to change the CPS for the hell of it but it looks brand new...not a speck of dirt on the metal bracket. It will idle but very poorly. I was thinking injector-o-rings but I'm not exactly sure what that would cause." Paul Jasmine, Cedar Creek, WY A: Steve Says: First things first. Let's get some diagnostics codes and pinpoint the problems. The fuel smoke at start up may just be glow plugs or control problems. The rough running at idle could be wiring, injectors, ipr or a related part. Take the time to troubleshoot the codes and pinpoint the problems. This will help keep the cost of repairs down and most of all accurate replacement of parts. Q: TRANSMISSION BLUES: "My 5 speed shifts great around town but when I drive it for any length of time on the highway and stop at a toll booth or come into another town, the truck is very hard to shift particularly out of neutral into 2nd or reverse. Do you think I am having a hydraulics problem or a clutch problem or a transmission fluid problem? I do not hear any strange noises or whining. Thanks for the help." Jay Reeves, Palo Alto, CA. A: Steve Says: Sounds like one of two problems. First measure the travel of the slave cylinder @release lever on left side of transmission. If not fully releasing problem will occur. Next,when problem is occurring put vehicle in neutral and pump clutch pedal and see if trans goes into gear w/o grinding. These would be associated with hydraulic failure. A faulty pressure plate has also been known to cause this condition. Q: GLOW PLUGS? "Hi Steve, My check engine light just came on last night. I checked the error code and found it had 2 errors, P1391 & P1393. These codes are related to the left & right glow plug banks. Since I'm fairly new to my PS, I thought I'd better ask a few questions before proceeding. My questions are what would cause an error to both banks? Also, can I continue to drive the truck with t the check engine light on? Or should I disconnect something? I did a brief test last night of the relay, I do have voltage to it, it does turn on and have voltage on the output side. Anything else I should check before pulling the valve cover to ohm out each glow plug? Also, I live in the southern California area. It sounds like from what I've read, that I can live without the glow plugs for a little while (until I repair what's wrong). Thanks." Dave Polumbo A: Steve Says: Dave, It sounds like you may have a wiring issue or as you said, bad glow plugs. I have really never seen faulty glow plugs set a code. If you want to check glow plugs you don't have to pull the valve covers. Unplug the wire harness at the valve cover and ohm the most outer pins, these are the glow plug terminals (furthest from the center). If no other symptoms are occurring, it's probably OK to drive. You will, however, experience white/blue fuel smelling exhaust smoke when cold. Q: MORE GLOW PLUGS: "I have a 97 250 PSD that I believe has bad glow plugs. Seems when ever it sits a while, it is hard to start, it will take a couple of times to start and has a lot of white smoke, but whenever I start her up later in the day, starts right without smoke. I found on this form how to test them and the relay, but I do not have a voltage meter but hope to find one this week to be sure. My question is, what brand of glow plug should I look for and what brands should I stay away from. I found these on e bay glow plugs. Can I find better ones, cheaper? Thanks in advance." Bert Lowery, Colton, PA A: Steve Says: On Powerstroke engines one should stay with OE parts,in this case Motorcraft. We have found that after market plugs fail prematurely,break off easier and don't have the correct resistance. Don't forget to check compression on higher mileage motors,this problem can occur with poor compression also. Q: ELECTRONICS TROUBLE: "My truck ('97 F250 PSD) hasn't been running well and recently it has suddenly died several times while running down the road. I don't have time or tools for all the diagnostics, so I took it to a mechanic. This is an independent mechanic with a good local reputation (not the dealer). He called a little while ago and said he can't get either of his diagnostic computers to communicate with the truck. He pulled the chip, checked all fuses and connections, and still nothing. It's going to be pretty hard to diagnose if he can't pull any codes. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions? Cheers." Kelly McCoy, West Texas A: Steve Says: Sounds like an electronic problem. Is there another pcm available to swap with to verify scan tool communication? It doesn't have to be the same year (95-97)standard or automatic. If the scan tool communicates, then the pcm is at fault. If communication is still not received then a no start occurs, no codes diagnostics will be required. Let us know if wiring diagrams are needed. Q: SCAN IT: "94 F250 PStrokIn in the past would be driving fine, and on acceleration it would begin to miss, and if I released the throttle, it would go to idle and straighten out, and run fine for a month or so. It did it about 2 minutes after startup yesterday. I did my usual and it ran fine for 15 minutes. Then it started stumbling again, cleared, and started again. Now it won't go away. I radioed a newfound friend that is a local mechanic here in Paris TX. He's not a diesel man, but we spent 4 hours tearing into the truck. On the Pass side, the rear rear plug on the valve cover gasket was burned. He cut away the burned section on the outer plug. We removed the gasket, and the inside was fine (ohmed it out). Front looked fine too. Aftger cutting away the burned section, he made plugs to get power to the GP's. The center 3 contacts survived. Reassembled and it is still happening. Pulling the front plug does not change the stumble at all. It will start, run fine for maybe 2 seconds. The Odometer will flash, and show the mileage, then at the same time, the CEL comes on, and the stumble returns. At this point, I'm so used up I grab a motel, and sack out for the night. So this morning I tested and it's the same. I can go about 35 MPH since I have a trailer with about 3000 lbs on it. I think I will start towards home, and have my wife start towards me with her suburban. I think if I get the trailer off, I can do about 50 or so, and get the truck home before nightfall. Crank sensor was replaced about 3 years ago. So spare on hand. I may try to nurse it to an Autozone and pick one up. All the Ford Stealerships were closed when it happened (sat @ 1pm) so there was no option to replace the harness before Monday." Derrick Wickles, Paris, TX A: Steve Says: Sounds to me like a good diagnostic scan is in order. It is imperative to know what the DTCs read. Burned wiring would indicate high to low side open at given cylinder. A buzz test or contribution test would indicate if we have a faulty injector or cylinder issue. My suspicion would be a faulty injector. I don't recommend after-market sensors. OE on these components,the dealer price has dropped but not the quality. If we can help feel free to contact us. Q: DEALER ISSUES: "I had a pretty big puddle under the truck the other day. Turns out it was the back of the hpop. Had the dealership replace it, also replaced the o-ring on the front drivers side head plug which was also leaking. One week and 1200 bucks later, my truck feels sluggish, and borderline "gutless". My fuel economy is probably about as good as it's ever been, so i can't really complain there. I'm not "chipped" or anything like that.....but I would like my truck to feel like it used to. I told the ford guys about it, and OF COURSE, after a test drive and computer scan, the claimed that it doesn't register any codes, and that it's the "BEST RUNNING 7.3 THEY'VE FELT IN YEARS". Sure fellas. I think what they meant to say was "YOU SHOULD GO BUY A 6.4" Any ideas on some actual troubleshooting i can do, and not just "easter-egging" (part swapping) until my wallet is empty and my engine compartment looks new. Thanks as always." Joe A: Steve Says: Joe, I doubt that changing the oil pump had anything to do with power loss. I have seen on the other hand, that the dealer will reprogram the PCM to the latest program without your knowledge. I have had many Powerstrokes and have experienced this problem. After flashing them back to an earlier program they run much better. If you get a chance, try a superchips tuner. Generally this will provide a good kick in power and improved fuel mileage. Q: AXLE PROBLEMS: "I'm trying to get my rear axle out so I can replace the wheel seals. Don't you just remove the axle shaft to rear hub bolts and slide it out? Mine won't budge. I mean, I can move it out a little tiny bit, but something is holding it in there, pulling it back. I don't know if the rear end is stock, or if something has been done to it....it has rvt sealant around the cover, so someone's been in there. Another question is about the identification code. The code on the door for the axle says "C5". Do you know what this is? I couldn't match it up in the list of codes I do have. Thanks" Kerry Baxter, Johnson City, TX A: Steve Says: If this differential is on an F250/F350 your method is correct. These units either have a Dana 80 usually found in the 350 or the sterling in the other. You can find the ID # on the tag located on the rear cover bolt, or remove the cover and look down the edge of the ring gear. I have seen galled bearing that freeze the axle to the hub. Twisted splines in the spider gears will also cause this problem. An F150 should have a pin or clips that need to be removed internally. Don't forget to add limited slip additive to gear oil where applicable. Q: BAD FUEL: "On my 97 f350 cc dw .. the fuel filter light came on during a road trip and I noticed my mpg were down so I stopped and changed it on the highway and everything was back to normal .. well 2 days later it came on again so I changed the filter and cleaned the canister and everything was fine for a few days and now it is on again.... it mainly comes on after extended periods of driving but sometimes in town if I'm on the throttle a lot.. Thanks" Adam A: Steve Says: Sounds like you got a dose of bad fuel. If this keeps happening,your going to have to drain the tank. Keep in mind,that some fuel stations are using B20 bio-diesel in some form. This will stop fuel filters up in a hurry! Q: TRANSMISSION: "We just purchased a 97 F350 truck, it has a re-built transmission with approx 5000 miles. It was re-built back to stock and the truck is stock. I know that you can beef up a re-built transmission, but what else can I do to make this trans last longer and shift better. we pull very little with the truck, mostly high way miles. I haven't had a E40D in years, but did have a bad experience in the past. There was nothing that could be done for them back then, so I am wondering what is on the market now. Thanks" Jason Braughm A: Steve Says: Jason, My suggestion would be a superchips tuner set on the tow safe setting. This will give you a nice shift improvement and a safe boost in horsepower without costly modifications. The E40D, if re-manufactured by a qualified re-builder, has seen many improvements. I would add an oversized tranny cooler and service the unit every 20K. I know you'll enjoy your new truck. Q: FUSE 22: "I have a 1994 F-250 that blows fuse 22 as soon as the key is turned on. I believe this goes to the ignition system since the "Wait to start" light does not come on and the truck will not start. I disconnected the ignition, coil and measured across the fuse holder. This read 5 ohms. I Pulled the connectors to the valve covers and it still measured 5 ohms. Seems like it is a cable short but I do not have the cable pin outs so I can verify it. Where can I find the short? Also the fuse was a 30 amp but the owners manual says it should be a 20a. Could that be for gas? Should I put the 20a back in after the short is found? Thanks," Dave Aztlano A: Steve Says: Unplug the black single wire from the drivers side of the fuel bowl, behind and below the regulator, replace the fuse and test it. If the truck starts, then the fuel bowl heater has shorted out. Remove the filter, drain it, and inspect it. You will probably see your problem right away. Q: BAD COMPUTER? "When I turn the key, there is no WTS light. The ABS light comes on and goes out. The engine turns over but does not fire. There is no smoke from the tail pipe. The tach does not move and the speedo drops from it's resting position to about 2mm below. I am stumped... I replaced the CPS less than 10k miles ago and I just put on a new starter. Could it be the computer? I really have no money to take it to a shop. I need to resolve this fairly economically. Any and all suggestions are gratefully acknowledged! Thanks!" Paul Fabino A: Steve Says: Paul, Check the maxi fuses at the power distribution box under the hood. If the fuse is blown and continues to blow, {check with circuit breaker} then check the fuel bowl heater. This is located under the fuel filter. It's pretty common for this unit to short out. if this is the case, then unplug the external harness that passes through the fuel bowl, replace the fuse and test it. If this doesn't cure the problem then find a qualified tech to diagnose it. For you, this shouldn't take more than 30 minutes. It gets expensive to throw parts at the problem without proper diagnostics. Feel free to email back for further info and help. Q: WHICH TRUCK? "I have a chance, well 2 actually, to get a truck that is closer suited to my needs. Both of the ones I have found so far are 1995 models. I seem to remember that the automatics in that year had some weaker parts than 96 ups. Is there anything to look at closer on these trucks or should I look at it no differently? One truck has 160K or so, no background at all on it from the dealer. It's a little rough around the edges because it was a farm truck based on what I see and the fact it has a farm tag. Other one has less than 140K and doesn't claim a rebuild but is a clean truck overall. Any thoughts?" Bill Parsons A: Steve Says: Bill, I would have to say that the early E4OD transmissions were somewhat problematic. Since then, many improvements and upgrades have been implemented into the reman units. Remember,service is the key to a unit that lasts a long time. My recommendation is to change filter and fluid every 20K. You can look at the tag on the driver side of the transmission and see if the unit has been re-manufactured. It will be denoted with a RM in the numbers. This will be there if this is a Ford reman. I suggest if you have to replace the unit at any time to go with a Ford reman. 3 Yrs. 75K warranty! Q: SENSOR: "Hi Steve, What sensor is in the airbox of a 95 f250 and what does it measure? Thanks" Lynne Davies, Ontario, Canada A: Steve Says: The sensor found in the air box is the IAT or intake air temperature sensor. As the name states, this sensor monitors intake air temps. Q: FUEL GRADES: "What's the difference in diesel fuels between # 1 and # 2? What about non highway use or "red" diesel? Can that be run in a Powerstroke?" Abe Coltrane, Bingham, NY A: Steve Says: #1 diesel is a better refined fuel with a higher octane rating. This is similar to octane in gas products. Red diesel is great fuel,high in sulfur and has a good octane #. The problem lies in the laws. Red diesel is allowed only in off road equipment and farm equipment. Stiff fines follow. To answer your question, it runs great in the non emission compliant engines. Q: DOA: "Truck Died" still wont start!! Fuse #22 was blown. I unplugged the fuel heater and replaced the fuse... still no-start. The WTS light is not coming on. What blew the fuse? What do I try next? I was told the CPS would cause the truck to shut off, but would it blow the fuse? Could it be the fuel pump? Could it be the GPR? I don't have the funds to replace everything it might be. Any suggestions are welcome!! Thank You!" Lance Delaney, Chester, PA A: Steve Says: I'm assuming this is a 94-97 stroke. If so, I would inspect the fuel bowl wire harness very carefully. Check for melted wires in the back and at the regulator. This harness plugs into the engine wire harness and fails quite often. Q: OIL LEAK: "I needed to replace the uvc harness due to burnt terminals and I did so along with a new gasket. I had an oil leak and blamed it on the gasket so I ran a small bead of rtv around the gasket and then around the valve cover to be sure it would seal up and not leak. Surprise, the leak is still there. Oil is leaking from somewhere and filling the little lip that the bolts go into on the back of the passenger side vc. Any ideas where its coming from? It is really starting to aggravate me as the underside and back of the truck is covered in oil. Thanks" John Vail, Sedewick, Ontario A: Steve Says: Try taking the cover back off and inspecting it carefully, may have crack in the plastic portion of gasket. Also, when the cover is off, place cover on a known flat surface and confirm cover is not warped and in need of straightening out. Q: BRAKE TOOLS: "What's involved as far as special tools to do a front break job on a 97-350 diesel 4x4? I've done plenty on other vehicles, but was told it's a trick and a half to remove the rotors on the truck." Darrell Greenwood, Cleveland, OH A: Steve Says: It takes a special socket on some models to remove the inner axle nut. Remove the 4x4 hub,lock ring and the very thin walled nut. Good luck. Q: POWERSTROKE DIFFERENCES: "Hi Steve, What's the primary difference between the new and the old Powerstroke motors? Thanks" Dan Mallory, Danbury, CT A: Steve Says: The difference between the 94-2003 7.3 Powerstroke and the new twin turbo 6.4 is like night and day. First of all, the 7.3 is a proven reliable engine.(Look how long it stayed in production) Accessibility to all engine components can be be achieved without too much frustration, and labor hours on repairs are reasonable. The 7.3 has a high pressure oil driven injection system. This system consists of injectors, a high pressure oil pump, a pressure regulator and a pressure sensor. It also has an electronic module (Injector Driver Module) that sends current to the injectors to make them fire. On the other hand the 6.4 has not been out long enough to see how reliable it will be. This engine is emission compliant and has EGR coolers and a diesel particulate filter. These items are new technology and reliability has not yet been proven. On the other hand,the 6.4 has changed to common rail injection. Much simpler than the 7.3 HEUI system mentioned above,the common rail system contains only a high pressure fuel pump and injectors a sensor and runs much quieter. A lot less to go wrong. We have high expectations for the 6.4 after the flop of the 6.0, but a little more time is needed for a thumbs up! I'm still a 7.3 fan. Q: WAIT TO START LIGHT: "What's the purpose of the wait to start light? What if I ignore it and start the truck?" Dan Ross, Burlington, VT A: Steve Says: The wait to start light indicates that the glow plugs are pre-heating the cylinders before fuel is injected and the engine starts. By not letting the glow plugs cycle, excessive exhaust smoke will be observed. On a cold day the engine may not even start if you don't let the wait to start light cycle. Q: TURBO FIT: "Will a 1999 PSD garret turbo fit my 1995 PSD? I got a hot tip on a brand new one for a 1999 for less than $50." John Atkins, Round Rock, TX A: Steve Says: Yes, but you will need some mods. You need the pedestal,the collector at the top of the y pipes,the intake and intake runners. If using as factory set up, you will need charged air tubes, intercooler and connectors. Give us a call if you need further assistance. Q: ADDITIVES: "Should I use a fuel supplement in my 04 Powerstroke? Which one? Thanks for your time in advance." Paul Donaldson, Austin, TX A: Steve Says: Yes, I would certainly use an additive. The brand I recommend is Schaeffer's diesel treat 2000. Call the shop and I can give you an update on the additives. Q: LEAKING: "So week before Christmas my truck develops a decent leak from the water pump weep hole. So I replaced the water pump. This included the thermostat and a new thermostat housing. Get it all sealed back up drive it several days no problem. Friday comes around, I drive it to work and notice some liquid when I go to leave that wasn't there. Drive home and park. Check later that night and it is coolant. I couldn't find the leak so I took it to a mechanic (NAPA repair shop) today to see where it is coming from. Well the technician who worked on it determined that it is not the water pump, that it is coming from behind the water pump. So it must be the timing cover (engine cover) gasket. He quoted me 18 hours and $1800(round number) to fix. I picked it up and said I would get back with him in a pay check or two. Does their diagnoses sound correct?" Sam, Highland Park, CO A: Steve Says: This is a possibility but would definitely seek a second opinion from a facility that specializes in Powerstrokes. We have been working on strokes since 1995 at our facility and I've only replaced 1 front cover. The price sounds fair as the engine must be removed to make the repair. Any questions to assist give me a call. Q: CUMMINS OR POWERSTROKE: "I'm looking at buying 1 of 2 trucks. I know you don't have a crystal ball in front of you, but generally speaking, which motor do you think would last longer. A Cummins or a Powerstroke?" John Abraham, Jennings, ND A: Steve Says: The Cummins will last 500-600k hands down, and the Powerstroke 250-400k. The problem with the Cummins is the truck its mounted in usually doesn't last that long. On the other hand the Ford does very well as it ages. Resale value is always better also. Q: SEEING RED: "What is "red diesel" fuel." Bill Johnson, Austin, TX A: Steve Says: Red diesel is a high sulfur off road use only fuel. This is a quality fuel but is not allowed for on-highway use. Remember the fines are stiff for violating the intended use. Furthermore, high sulfur fuels can damage the newer engines and will void warranties. Q: 1997 VS 2002: "What's the difference between a 97 and an 02' Powerstroke in the motor? Thanks" Aaron Davis, Leander, TX A: Steve Says: The 97 is a 215 hp non-intercooled engine,where the 02 is a 250 hp{automatic} up to 275 hp {standard} transmission intercooled engine. Both are 444 cubic inches but more power is achieved through the intercooler and turbo. Different injectors also factor in along with programming. Q: DRIVESHAFT: "Hi Steve, I get a squealing sound like light metal-to-metal contact whenever I put the truck in reverse and begin backing up. It only squeaks when I'm rolling, and it doesn't squeak when I drive forward. Since I can't get under the truck while it's moving, any idea on what I should look for? Driveshaft problem?" Harris Sudderman, Wheeling, WV A: Steve Says: Pull the driveshaft and manually move the u-joints. Probably froze up in one direction. Q: POOR STARTING: "I am still having issues with start ups in the morning. When its plugged in its fine. I have replaced all glow plugs, UVC harnesses and gaskets, new Glow plug relay. All pins look good and not burnt. One weird thing that does happen is when I get a hard start, and it finally catches. The chip (Tony's)overrides all settings. Meaning that it goes right into extreme setting. I then have to wait until it warms up and shut it off before I can get the settings back." Dana Couch, Princeton, NJ A: Steve Says: I would remove the chip until the problem is solved. This will likely solve the problem. I have seen chips and programmers go corrupt from time to time. Try this and e mail me back. Q: EXHAUST: "You hear these loud trucks with flowmasters etc. They sound great, but what would be the difference in performance if you simply removed the muffler and the catalytic converter? Would that be legal?" Dan Abraham, Philly, PA A: Steve Says: Sounds great! The turbo acts like a muffler but the problem is the new law. If the truck was built with a muffler on it it has to be on there when inspected. The newer engines with egr systems could be damaged if removed. Q: BRAKES: "I was going down the road the other night (no rain) and both of the lights came on (ABS and Brake) at the same time, at about 75 mph. The fluid is full, replaced the sensor on the differential today, replaced and bled all the brakes. I got a superchips programmer and that's not showing any codes. Speedometer works, it shifts normal, pedal doesn't go to the floor, and no trans light. The truck stops fine. Any help would be great... Thanks" Ian Freeman, Dover, DE A: Steve Says: Dan, I'm not sure what year your truck is, but 99-03 had a problem with the pressure switch on the master cylinder. There is a TSB and replacement switch as well as the harness available at Ford. Q: LOCKS: "My '97 Crew Cab has some issues with the door locks. Wondering if any of you have had the issue and know what needs replaced. My drivers door lock will sometimes not "catch" when turning the key or using the power switch. The rod only moves part way. Sometimes I get to crawl in from the passenger side and use the handle to get it unlocked, but even then it takes a couple pulls to get the rod to pop up. My passenger door key lock likes to stick and not turn, and my RR door rod is so stiff it is hard to unlock by hand (the power locks don't do anything for it anymore) This same door has a problem with the window sticking in the down position. Not sure if that's related. The space is so tight in these doors I can't see how it all works down there. Not sure if it's just from dirt or wear and tear. Not sure if this is common on these OBS trucks or not. Any ideas on what I can do to fix or what I need to replace are much appreciated. Thanks!" Chuck Polumbo, Waco, TX A: Steve Says: Replace the actuators. It's a lot easier to let a body shop do it! Q: MORE EXHAUST: "I have a 97 F250 PSD. When I take off from a stop I get a click sound and like an air pressure noise that sounds like it comes in the vents but doesn't blow any air out. I just hear the air sound and then it goes away after 4 seconds when I hit the gas a little more.... am I hearing things or what !!?? Thanks" Joe Ellings, Dallas, TX A: Steve Says: You may be hearing the turbo on acceleration or an exhaust leak at the y pipes or manifold. Get under the truck with a light and look for soot residue at these places. Q: VACUUM: "I drove about 1/2 mile to the stop sign and the brakes were fine at first, but then no vacuum. I then drove another 1/2 mile to red light and the same thing. Fine at first but then the vacuum went away. I turned the heater off and everything was fine. The ABS light has been on the past 6 times I drove the truck. The truck spends a lot of time sitting. I only drive it on weekends and to pull a toy hauler. Btw its a 97 F350 DRW Powerstroke. 160,000 miles. Do these vacuum pumps act like this when they are going out?" A: Steve Says: Sounds like you're on the right track. Check the amount of vacuum. It should be 25 inches. If not in spec, replace the pump. Also, check all the vaccum lines and connections. Remember, this year model has a vacuum booster and it should be checked also. Q: PULLEY: "How much movement should the tensioner pulley have when the truck is running? I notice also that the edge of the pulley is touching the bolt to the bottom left. Is this normal? Thanks" Brett Sawyer, Jackson, Mississippi A: Steve Says: Definitely it should not touch the bolt. It will fly apart and wreak havoc. It's time to replace it. Q: TRANS FLUID: "I heard a long time ago of a guy who supplemented his oil with a quart of transmission fluid in the crankcase on a gas engine. Would something like that help a diesel?" Dan Henderson, Reno, NV A: Steve Says: I would not recommend it in a diesel. It's ok to put it in the fuel as long the vehicle is not an emission compliant model. Q: BIO DIESEL: "I thought about converting my truck (1999 f 250 psd) to bio-diesel capable in an effort to pay less at the pump and help out the atmosphere a bit as well. Is this an easy process or is it involved and will it hurt me down the road in terms of longevity? Thanks" Bart Michaels, Dallas, TX A: Steve Says: Be careful, manufacturers will only approve B5 which is 5% bio. Anything over that will void the warranty. We've seen more harm than good at this point. I think with some better refining the future holds a lot for the product. Q: FRONT END ANATOMY: "My shop told me I need a new front end on my 05 F250 and started throwing all these names of parts around and I have no understanding of what it is they are talking about. Can you give me a simple breakdown of the terms like ball joint, etc? Thanks" Bill Parsons, Glendale, CA A: Steve Says: Your tires are connected to a spindle. The ball joints connect the spindle to the axle housing and allow the spindle to swivel or rotate so the vehicle can turn. When the ball joints get worn then the tires start to wear and steering gets sloppy. The tie rod ends connect the steering wheel to the spindles. when they get loose steering also gets sloppy and vehicle starts to wander. If you don't feel confident in the repair diagnostics get a second opinion. Q: DODGE: "A friend of mine asked me the other day why I didn't buy an older dodge instead of an older ford. I jokingly remarked that you don't see a lot of older dodge trucks around. Hardly any now that I think about it. Why is that?" Bill Dennesey, Ft Wayne, IN A: Steve Says: The old Dodges just fall apart. All's that's left is the engine. What an engine though! Q: BETTER ECONOMY: "With the price of diesel near $5 per gallon in Texas, what do you suggest we can do to our F250s and F350s to help make them more fuel efficient? Thanks Steve!" Luka "R Man" Bruchey A: Steve Says: A superchips tuner, proper services, and a cold air intake would help. Also, address any check engine lights and be careful of the fuel your putting in your truck. We're seeing a lot of injector damage due to poor fuel quality. A good additive with lubricity enhancer, octane improver and water dispersant would be a plus.
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